Poking around inside the Astron RS-35A

Spent some time poking around inside my Astron PS with a schematic in hand. It was interesting having another look inside and examining things a little closer.

With the schematic, I was able to identify a few components that I didn’t immediately recognize. At the AC input side, I found a varistor, VR1, (150L10) in between the fuse and the switch, rather than between the switch and the transformer as shown on the schematic. None of the schematics I see show it like that so it makes me wonder if the PS has had some “work” done to it.

Astron RS-35A power input
Astron RS-35A power input

Here’s the wiring on the AC input side

Astron RS-35A power input
Astron RS-35A power input

The schematic shows a 64 mF 25V electrolytic capactor (C5) filtering the output of the transformer, but in my unit that was accomplished with two large 32 mF capacitors in parallel. Probably easier that way. A 64 mF capacitor would be pretty big.

Power filtering caps
Power filtering caps

Output from the transformer goes into the control board which handles regulating the output of the power supply.

Power regulation board
Power regulation board

The 2N3771 pass transistors are easily seen on the back of the power supply where the heatsink takes up pretty much the whole rear panel. On the inside 0.05 Ω 5W power resistors hang off them.

2N3771 pass transistors
2N3771 pass transistors

The high current output of the transformer goes into a couple of 1N1184A power diodes that appear to be set up to do simple half wave rectification. Schematics in later models show a pair of bridge rectifiers doing full wave rectification on the transformer output. The newer models probably produce a lot less ripple in the output waveform than mine does. My power supply has the 1N1184A diodes (CR101 and CR102) bolted to the chassis. The thick yellow wires feed the diodes and the thinner orange wires go to the control board. The green wire is a center tap off the transformer and goes to the negative terminal of one of the 32mF capacitors.

1N1184A power diodes
1N1184A power diodes

Also bolted to the chassis is a TIP29A transistor (Q2) using the chassis as a heat sink. Later models have this on the control board with a small heat sink.

Another diode looking thing is bolted to the chassis, which according to the schematic is a S0535H diode (SCR1). I can’t confirm this using the text stamped on it though.

S0535H SCR diode
S0535H SCR diode

This leads to the output of the power supply, which has a 2200 μF capacitor (C101) across the output terminals. Where the schematic shows just a single 10 nF capacitor also across the output terminals, mine has what appears to be two 47 nF capacitors (some older schematics show them as 10 nF caps) each connecting one terminal of the 2200 μF capacitor to ground, along with a 3000 Ω resistor from the negative terminal to ground. This is something that I saw on earlier schematics, but not on later ones. Apparently they’re for filtering out sags or spikes if the load on the output changes.

Astron RS-35A power output
Astron RS-35A power output

Astron PS mods

I’ve been pondering some modifications to make to my Astron power supply. The first mod I considered was replacing the nut/bolt terminals with Anderson power pole connectors, but it looks like that will require replacing some wiring and what appears to be additional filtering components which I think I’d rather not do in case I mess things up. Plus I’d also have to square out the round holes for the power pole terminals. I think I’ll just make up some pigtails with power pole connectors instead.

Found a fair bit of info and interesting looking mods to Astron power supplies at the Repeater Builder site that I might try. The in-rush current reducer mod looks simple enough and while mine has never tripped the breaker when I flip the power switch, it seems like a good idea to have in place.

I think it would also be neat to have a volt and current meter on the PS to monitor the output. There’s plenty of room on the front panel of the PS for meters, but my metal working tools and skills are limited and I’m not sure I’d be able to do a proper job yet. I think the easiest way for me to add the meters is make a separate enclosure or panel for them that will sit on top of the PS. That should be easy enough to do.

One interesting thing that I noted while browsing the Astron part of the Repeater Builder site is that all of the schematics for the RS-35M/RS-35A they have show only one large 2.2 mF filtering capacitor while there are two in my PS. Don’t know if that’s an addition to newer models, or if it was someone else’s mod.

After taking another look at the first pictures I took, it looks like there may already be a thermistor (the red thing that I think looks like a thermistor anyway) added in the circuit.

Think I’ll open it up again and have a closer look at what’s inside.

Dummy load enclosure

A little Sucrets tin turned out to be a good size for my QRP dummy load.

Dummy load enclosure
Dummy load enclosure
Dummy load enclosure
Dummy load enclosure

A short section of 1×4 sliced in half to about 1 cm thick serves as the base. The dummy load is screwed onto the board and the board glued into the tin. For extra security, I put three screws through the sides of the tin into the board.

On the antenna analyzer, it reads pretty close to 51Ω and 1.0 SWR between 3-10 MHz. Above that the impedance creeps up to as high as 55 Ω and 1.5 SWR below 28 MHz. SWR shoots up pretty high in the VHF range.

I don’t have an external connection for the power measurement yet. Still need to figure out how I’m going to do that. For now it will be an “open the lid” measurement.

CC1 enclosure

My CC1 is finally in its enclosure!

CC1 enclosure
CC1 enclosure
CC1 enclosure
CC1 enclosure

The templates for the faceplates I made worked out pretty well. The holes weren’t perfect, but I blame that on using a drill to make the holes. Would have been much easier if I had a drill press, or ideally a hole punch. For the BNC hole, I didn’t have a 1/4″ drill bit so I just used a 3/8″ bit (the largest I had) and my Dremel with a sanding drum to enlarge the hole.

CC1 enclosure
CC1 enclosure
CC1 enclosure
CC1 enclosure

Looks pretty good in its enclosure I think. Now I need to put some labels on it.

CC1 face plates

Update: After a couple of iterations with paper, some of the measurements were adjusted and the drawing updated. I’m pretty sure the measurements are accurate and will serve to help other CC1 builders create a drilling template for their build. As always, keep in mind the “measure twice, cut once” principle. YMMV. Links to my templates are at the end of the post. Feel free to use them as a starting point for your CC1 build.


In preparation for drilling out the holes in the face plates for the CC1 enclosure, I used my digital calipers to measure the distances to the center of each of the connectors that would need a hole.

First I started measuring while holding it in my hand, but I realized there’s a little bit of play when the board is in the enclosure and measurements would change depending on how I was holding it.

I decided to place CC1 and enclosure on the table and starting with the left-most connector (A), measure it’s position relative to the left and bottom edges of the enclosure. For the remaining connections, I just measured the offset from the first one since their positions are fixed. Seemed like the most accurate way of doing things.

In Dia, I made this drawing up

CC1 face plate template
CC1 face plate template

The face plates are 74mm x 29mm. The top one is the back plate with the largest hole corresponding to the BNC jack. The bottom one is for the front plate. The Dia version should be to scale, but when I printed it, it was just a tiny bit short along the x-axis. Apparently printer scaling and computer scaling is a tiny bit different. It should still be pretty close to use as a template though. Will try cutting it the paper version to see how well it fits before I start drilling.

These are the measurements I came up with

Front plate.

Measurement for A is relative to the left and bottom edge. Measurements for B-G are relative to A.

HoleX (mm)Y (mm)(X, Y)
A12.515.5(12.5, 15.5)
B+12+3(24.5, 18.5)
C+22-2.5(34.5, 13)
D+31-2.5(43.5, 13)
E+38-3.5(50.5, 12)
F+38+0.5(50.5, 16)
G+48.5+3(60.5, 18.5)

Back plate.

Measurement for A is relative to the left and bottom edge. Measurements for B and C are relative to A.

HoleX (mm)Y (mm)(X, Y)
A1815.5(18, 15.5)
B+22.50(40.5, 15.5)
C+37+2(55, 17.5)

Template files. Download these to use as a starting point for your build.